Winter on Iveragh
LOCATION: Across Iveragh
A wonderful time to explore the outdoors
Wonderful Winter Waders
The Winter Beach
Winter Weather
Winter often evokes thoughts of woolly jumpers, hot drinks and fewer crowds in our favourite outdoor places. While the buzz of summer is exciting, the slower pace of winter is a welcome switch - people have more time to chat, especially those you meet on some of the stunning walking trails that crisscross the Iveragh Peninsula, or maybe at the high-stool of a cosy pub. People seem to absorb more of their surroundings, letting the sounds and sights of nature soak in. And what sounds and sights there are in winter on the Iveragh! The numbers of overwintering birds are at their peak and the 'honking', 'pee-weeping' and gentle 'cur-lews' of a mixed flock of waders sound clearer on the cold winter air. The dazzling motion of these waders taking flight in their hundreds is simply hypnotic. An overcast day can cast an almost infinite number of shades of grey, however, there is still plenty of colour to be found. Rockpools at low tide reveal glossy seaweeds and shimmering shells while lichens and mosses provide a new layer to discover in the woodlands. But if it's drama you are looking for then a mix of winter weather is sure to deliver. Crisp blue skies can turn quickly to squally showers and that promise of a post walk hot drink can be a tantalising incentive to head out and brave the elements.
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Winter on Iveragh
1. Wonderful Winter Waders
Many wading birds fly in dazzling flocks with white flashes as they turn in the air. Enjoy this film of a flock of Dunlin (Breacóg) in Cromane which has a slow-motion section to allow you to see how close they fly and turn in unison.
The unmistakable silhouette of a Lapwing (Pilibín), its long head feathers a standout feature.
The influx of over-wintering birds has hit its peak, with numbers at their highest and gatherings at their most impressive. We might curse our wet, mild winters but they are perfect for these wetland birds who arrive from northern latitudes - Iceland, Greenland or colder parts of mainland Europe - where the ground often becomes frozen over. Some of the visiting species would once breed in Ireland in larger numbers, such as Lapwing (Pilibín) or Curlew (Crotach or Cuirliún) but changes in land-use means this is becoming less and less frequent so the best chance to see them is in winter. The changes in climate elsewhere may also mean we will see less species migrating here in the future, as milder winter temperatures in northern regions mean they don't have to travel as far as they used to in order to find ice free ground.
Birds that follow the tides, searching shorelines and mudflats for their food are known as 'wading' birds. Listening to the constant communications amongst a flock of Lapwing, it is easy to understand why they are sometimes called a 'peweet'. With their delicate long head feathers and iridescent colours, they are a delight to encounter, but their numbers are dwindling and these encounters are becoming less frequent.
Hours can be lost watching coastal birds, learning who's who or simply being captivated by their beauty or behaviours. How can the feet of a Sanderling (Luathrán) outrunning the incoming surge of the sea possibly move so quickly? A busy blur transports them magically - just maintaining a safe distance from being swept away and yet they follow the same retreating wave down the beach until it turns to chase them again. A dangerous game of cat and mouse. Or maybe spot a rarer visitor such as a Spoonbill (Leitheadach) - one of these birds has been sighted for a number of winters now - a second bird appearing this year. Larger than a Little Egret (Éigrit Bheag), these elegant snow-white birds can be recognised by the long, flattened bill from which they get their name.
An array of duck species can also be seen at this time with many only visiting our shores for our milder winters before they return to their breeding grounds in the north. The Iveragh is graced with several sites that offer excellent opportunities to see these birds and it is something that can be enjoyed by all. In many cases you can easily observe these birds when walking beaches or trails, while those with binoculars may discover some discrete colours or shy reed-dwellers. Why not go a step further and take part in a wetland bird survey each winter? Your records could contribute to our knowledge in understanding the migrating journeys of our feathered friends as well as being a great excuse to take some outdoor time and learn new skills. Here are the best areas on Iveragh to observe wetland birds, especially in winter…
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Cromane
Both the beach and the marsh areas are great places to find birds. Teal (Praslacha), Curlew (Crotach or Cuirliún) and Oystercatchers (Roilleach) are just a few of those to be found in the marsh areas while Brent Geese (Cadhan) prefer the beach area. Mixed flocks of Dunlin (Breacóg) and Ringed Plover (Feadóg Chladaigh) seem to disappear into the pebble beach - their camouflage is spectacular. A Spoonbill (Leitheadach) has been visiting this area for several years now so be sure to keep a lookout for this rare visitor.
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Rossbeigh
What is locally known as the ‘Back Strand', this wetland area at Rossbeigh is sheltered from the ocean by sand dunes, making it a popular spot for birds. Curlew (Crotach or Cuirliún), Shelduck (Seil-lacha) and mixed flocks of small waders such as Sanderlings (Luathrán) and Ringed Plover (Feadóg Chladaigh) can be seen in the area. The path along the road back to Glenbeigh also gives a great view across the marsh sections and also keep an eye - and ear - open for Choughs (Cág Cosdearg) over the sand dunes.
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Reenroe and Inny Estuary
The first thing to explore is the ancient 4,000-year-old tree stumps that have been exposed on the beach following storms. Next, head right along the Reenroe Cliff Walk to gain a vantage point to view the ~1,000 Common Scoters (Scótar) (a hardy sea duck) that gather in vast rafts here each winter. Wigeon (Rualacha) can also be seen braving the waves while noisy Oystercatchers (Roilleach) shelter along the rocky cliffs. A fresh beach walk towards Inny Estuary gives a great opportunity to watch smaller waders probe the newly exposed sand as the tide retreats. The area is also home to rarer sightings of Purple Sandpipers (Gobadán Cosbhuí) or Surf Scoters (Scótar Toinne), so checking local birdwatching sites is always a good idea.
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Derrynane Lagoon
No doubt, you'll hear the Choughs (Cág Cosdearg) before you seen them in Derrynane - usually around the sand dune area - but there are plenty of other birds to be found here. The lagoon behind the dunes is a great place to watch Curlew (Crotach or Cuirliún) and Little Egrets (Éigrit Bheag) move along the water’s edge searching for food. Notice how the Curlew push their long bills into the sand probing for food while the Egret uses a stalk-and-stab technique. For more information on the area, download the Derrynane Nature Trail app or ask in Derrynane House for a guide to the nature trail.
2. The Winter Beach
Shells offer a kaleidoscope of colour on the seashore.
We’ve all done it. Packed up the car. Slapped on the sunscreen. Hopped in the water. Scoffed down the chips or 99’s – sand and all. Slept like a baby that night. The trip to the beach on a hot summer's day is a rare but memorable treat in Ireland. But the trip to the beach in winter can be rewarding on a whole different level. From invigorating windswept walks on a wild Rossbeigh afternoon to admiring the skill of a surfer at St Finian’s Bay against a backdrop of the Skelligs, simply taking in the winter sea-air can rejuvenate the body and mind. However, if you have a more curious mind, you may find that the devil is in the detail and a little bit of beachcombing can bring wonderful rewards for all ages.
Many mysterious items can appear after a storm, often adrift for months or more. With its striking patterns and long neck, the large Goose Barnacle (Giúrann) is a species that attaches to floating objects such as wood or discarded fishing equipment, often in their hundreds or even thousands. Like rocky shore barnacles, the goose barnacle opens its plates to unleash its long feather-like feeding arms (cirri) to capture passing morsels. If their floating homes get washed ashore, the goose barnacles can be left high and dry, its arms searching the air instead of the ocean, in what feels like a beach encounter of an alien kind.
Top: Gem Anemone (Bundún na Seod) in a rock pool and a rather romantic Arenicola Lugworm (Lugach) cast. Bottom: A Catshark or Dogfish (Fíogach Beag) egg casing, also known as a 'mermaid's purse' and Goose Barnacles (Giúrann) attached to a barrel washed up after a storm.
There are already those among us who have discovered the joy of rock pooling and winter rock pooling is a colourful source of adventure. Each pool can often be a different expedition depending on how long it is left exposed during the low tide. The further down the shoreline you travel, the greater the rewards (Be Careful! Always watch out for slippery surfaces, rogue waves and don’t get cut off by the returning tide!). Exquisite anemones, shy shrimps, fleeting fishy flashes, cantankerous crabs, billions of barnacles or whorled whelks (say that 10 times fast!), the list of residents is long, and the fun is endless.
Having a little peak under a blanket of Seaweed (Feamainn) can reveal more hidden life stories. But don’t ignore the seaweed itself. While a number of species are edible, there is also a staggering variety of shapes, colours and textures to behold; you can learn more on a tour at Derrynane Beach. On a grey winter’s day, the vibrant green of the delicate Sea Lettuce (Glasán) or the deep red hue of Dillisk (Duileasc) add a welcome variation to the colour palate. With delightfully descriptive names to help with identification – Maiden’s Hair (Folt Bé), Sea Hedgehog (Claíomh), Eyelash Weed (Feamainn Feabhra) to name a few – a little seaweed excursion is a great excuse to take off the shoes, roll up those jeans and get exploring… or maybe throw on the thermal socks and dust off the wellies for a winter excursion!
The colours and textures of seaweed, like these Bladder (Feamainn Bhuí) and Egg Wracks (Feamainn Bhoilgíneach) are beautiful but seaweed also offers a refuge for animals, such as Crabs (Portán), to hide when their habitat is exposed at low tide.
3. Wild Winter Weather
The view from Bolus Barracks Loop walk is spectacular, taking in the Skelligs and Puffin Island. It's also a great spot to watch dramatic weather approaching.
We love to talk about the weather. It is probably at the start of most of our conversations and a quick statement on the weather is also a great substitute for hello – “Lovely day!”, “The rain is coming!”, “Brrrr, it’s chilly". But when you are exploring the coastal landscape of the Iveragh Peninsula, the weather can add another layer to your experience. A crisp, clear, blue sky winter morning can lure the most reluctant of us to add an outdoor activity to our itinerary. A walk, some wildlife watching, or a stroll through one of Iveragh’s town waterfronts. And it's often been said that the best sunset needs some clouds to get the pinks, reds and purples that elevate it from a good one to a truly memorable one.
The mighty Cahergall stone fort walls seem to stretch on up into the clouds.
As the seas grow, the giants arrive. White horses gallop furiously across the surface before crashing on beaches, shores and headlands. Some of these waves bring with them a source of food for many through dislodged shellfish or unfortunate storm drowned birds. After the storm abates, Otters (Madra Uisce), Birds (Éin) and Crabs (Portán) are just some of the beneficiaries of this buffet. Storms may also bring those blown off course, birds from North America or Africa which are rarely seen may appear, so it is a good time to get the binoculars out. These wild oceans also have dramatic effects on the land. Sand can come and go overnight – St Finian’s Bay being a prime example. Rocks and boulders appear in impossible locations, proof of the raw power of the sea to lift these objects from the shore and scatter them on adjacent lands as if they weighed no more than pebbles.
With the coast comes the frequent changes in weather. A cloudless sky can be followed by a curtain of rain falling from clouds rolling in from the Atlantic. Maybe you are exploring a castle, or ring fort ruins when gradually the weather changes, the ruins undergo a shift in atmosphere, adding to their presence, as the mind wonders how many storms they have endured in their lifetime. The gnarled, leaning figures of trees on exposed ridges stand testament to the power of the prevailing winds, only the hardiest survive. Oystercatchers (Roilleach), gulls and other coastal birds turn in uniform to face the oncoming south-westerlies, often burying their heads deep under the shelter of a wing. Smaller individuals choose the prickly maze of the Gorse or Furze (Aiteann) and Heather (Fraoch) as their storm bunker.
Much of the spectacular coastal geology is down to exposure to intense weather from the Atlantic.
Coastlines show evidence of weathering ongoing for millennia - sea caves, arches, stacks, each telling their own chapter. Bands of vulnerable rock giving way to more resilient neighbours to form jagged headlands while in other areas these bands are displayed at impossible angles and curves - a glimpse into the immense continental collision which moulded much of Iveragh's infant years.
A lonely Ramalina lichen clings bravely to an upland fencepost.
Snowfall is more commonplace on the uplands of the Iveragh giving a spectacular backdrop to the coastal landscapes. These uplands fall under a magical peacefulness as the blanket of snow absorbs much of the soundscape. When snow caps appear on the hills, it gives a clue as to why certain species are absent from higher peaks. Those that can, will move downhill and those that can’t need to have specialist adaptations to survive. Vegetation is low and compact with Lichens (Léicean) and Bryophytes (Brífít) more abundant. Bogs filled with Sphagnum Moss (Sfagnam) are common on the hills due to the high rainfall and are an important carbon store. Like the coasts, the effects of the weather leave their mark on the uplands too. Patches of scree are evidence of the power of freezing water, forcing rocks apart, shattering the pieces which trickle and gather on the slopes below. The weather has been influencing life and land on Iveragh since time began, so when you are enjoying your stay in the region, make sure to take a moment to consider how the weather has shaped the landscape, the people, the history and your own personal experience of the Iveragh Peninsula.
A frosty morning walk is hard to beat.